Remember practise makes perfect, but do be prepared to have a few failures initially. The first good thing about turning wet wood is that you will not create so much dust, shavings will just stream off the gouge (with a spray of water), I have this permanent mark up the wall and ceiling of my workshop caused by turning wet wood. Now just so that you are warned you must ensure that the walls and base of anything you turn from green wood are uniformed whether that be 2mm or 20mm. Apologies here, I try and talk in imperial as all wood turners do, the problem is everyone else uses metric and so occasionally I sometimes break out into metric, but am having treatment for it. Right, try again – whether that be a sixteenth of an inch or one inch thick. The reason is that if you leave a thick base and thin walls on a bowl turned from wet wood the very next day it will look very much the same excepting by then it will likely have a half an inch crack opened up.

Always try and turn to an even thickness, or turn a blank (rough shape with thick walls as described earlier) and leave to dry some more before putting it back on the lathe at a later date and reshaping. Another method is to take the walls down very thin to 1 or 2mm – there we go metric again! and dry on the lathe. When walls are this thin they will dry very quickly as there is no bulk left to retain moisture. Do not be afraid to experiment, but be careful if you are new to turning as walls of 1mm or even 2mm are not easy at first and you will undoubtedly loose a few hollow forms with holes in the side as well as the top. Persevere and it will come in time, there is nothing more satisfying than looking at a nice turning with the knowledge that you cut down, dried and turned it, that is so much more enjoyable than buying dry wood from a shop.

Talking of which, be careful when buying wood just how dry, dry is. Some describe wood as P/S – part seasoned or P/D part dried, whichever be vary careful. If a tree was cut down last week it is still possible that you can pick up a piece of it that is waxed all over and described as part seasoned – it is, but another year or two would make a considerable difference to the moisture level. Wood should normally be sealed on the end grain only beware of wood totally sealed as it may never dry out until you turn off the wax and let the drying process begin properly. Notwithstanding this most stockists especially suppliers that turn themselves will normally play the game and mean partly dried when they describe it that way – if in doubt do not be afraid to ask.

Years ago ‘bodgers’ went out into the woods and made their living turning wet wood, they did not have the luxury of kiln dried wood and would probably not thank you if you gave them a piece in favour of something green that they can cut easier.

Be aware that wood will distort during all stages of the drying process, we are dealing with a natural product here not a piece of glass or pottery. It is most annoying when you complete a turning, come back the next day to finish it and find the rim or top has moved out of round. This is all part of the learning process and as long as you take care, you will soon know how to minimise or prevent such problems.

There are products on the market incidentally that will help the drying process albeit I have not tried them. I do have a container of P.E.G. but it is still sealed and I have never used it so cannot comment upon its suitability. What I can tell you is that in principle when applied it forces out the moisture by crystallising it, I have been told that a downside is that some finishes will not take on an item that has been soaked in PEG but again I cannot confirm. I must make an effort to try this out, watch this page and I will let you know the results soon.

Back to Top of Page